Another glass of bubbles

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In the twelfth of our series of articles describing how one couple finds their new life in Rye, they’re invited to the Gusbourne Estate, home to some award-winning English sparkling wines.

The Nest

Our recent article about the vineyards of Kent and Sussex attracted the attention of the team at Gusbourne, who very kindly invited your correspondent and his partner to the launch of their tasting room, called “The Nest”.

The old estate dates back to at least 1410 when it was mentioned in the will of John de Goosbourne. But Gusbourne is relatively young as a vineyard; the first vines were planted in 2004 by Andrew Weeber, formerly of Stellenbosch, South Africa.

Not having sampled Gusbourne wines (although you can buy them in Rye), we weren’t sure what to expect from our trip.

First, though, we had to find the place. The vineyard is near Appledore, but not close enough to the station for convenience. It’s tucked away in the Kent countryside, on Kenardington Lane so we decided to bite the bullet and book a cab. The experience was worth the fare.

Tasting, tasting

The sign at the entrance is so tastefully designed and discreet, you could easily miss it; but once on the drive, we could relax, enjoy the vista, and. as the vines came into view, start licking our lips.

The tasting room

The tasting room is on two floors of a facility so new-looking it could have been finished yesterday.

One of the Gusbourne team greeted us by pouring out two generous glasses of the 2013 Blanc de Blancs, saying as she did so: “You’re not allowed to proceed any further without a glass in your hand.” I’m liking this place!

We then had time to explore the tasting room, bar/shop, balcony, and read the information-boards on the vineyard’s geology, history and philosophy – while our glasses were being continually topped up by the staff.

My archaeologist partner was thrilled to discover a small display of finds from the site, including medieval coins and spindle whorls. Later, she had the chance to meet the metal detectorists whom Gusbourne had brought in when the ground was being prepared for the building.

Meanwhile, I was chatting to the graphic designer whose work surrounded us, beautifully complementing the contemporary architecture.

My partner and I have been fortunate to visit tasting rooms in Reims, Champagne, and in Victoria and New South Wales, Australia and I can promise you that the Gusbourne space is simply world-class.

But what of the wines?
Brut reserve, blanc de blancs and rose

Well, no doubt having had some teething troubles along the way, Gusbourne now makes wines which match the company’s original vision: “to produce exceptional wines that compete with the best sparkling wines in the world.”

Let’s take that 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs for example. The 2013 is a superbly balanced vintage (although personally I prefer the 2011, which has a dry edge to it).

The 2013 Brut Reserve is made from the classic trio of Champagne grapes, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay and I reckon it could give Chapel Down’s ‘Three Graces’ a run for its money.

And, as you’d expect, there’s a sparkling rosé, too. Gusbourne also makes a still white and a Pinot Noir; the latter was a delicious surprise, managing to be both light and complex.

Looking to the locals

Gusbourne are justifiably proud of their wines. But there’s more to the company than that. The launch event was a genuinely inclusive affair, with friends and supporters joined by all kinds of people who’ve been involved in the project to date – think metal detectorists and graphic designers!

And as well as the wines, we had the chance to sample some local foods including cured meats, cheeses and olives.

There was a real sense of community-feeling with an eye on quality.

Gusbourne is a work in progress. There isn’t a picnic area yet, but there will be, between the entrance to the tasting room and the vines. Maybe one day there’ll be a restaurant, too.

Frankly, I just wish I’d had the opportunity to buy shares in the company!

Photos: Gusbourne Estate

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