Rye is now, and always has been, rich in local characters, both real and fictitious, famous and infamous. Its cobbled streets must have seen a rich tapestry of interesting folk visiting over the centuries, from bawdy sailors in its many taverns, to the ubiquitous smugglers and pirates.
In recent years, however, Rye has had one particular visitor who appears at regular intervals. He comes dressed as Dr Syn, the smuggler hero from a series of novels by Russell Thorndike, and at first sight you could be mistaken for thinking you had seen a ghost.
My own first encounter was one afternoon around five years ago when, having walked past the crooked chimney at the top of West Street, I suddenly caught sight of a figure at the other end of the footpath close to entrance of St Mary’s Church.
This figure was clad in a dark blue velvet suit with breeches and a tricorn hat, from which sprouted a long white feather. As we drew closer, the figure doffed his chapeau – and from this action, the conversation began.
Frank Parsons is a regular visitor to Rye and constantly surprises and delights tourists by strolling around the town chatting to visitors and locals, and posing for photos.
Since we first encountered Frank, he has become a friend and even attended our Rye
wedding in June 2021. It made for a very interesting entourage when he and Paul Goring, the town crier, accompanied us from the Town Hall to the reception at the Mermaid Inn.
We now meet up with Frank every time he visits Rye from his home near Salisbury and I recently posed some questions about why he loves to play his part in the cultural landscape of the town.
Why do you keep coming back to Rye?
My long-standing connection with Rye began when I holidayed in the town in around 1978 in my early 20s and stayed at the lovely B&B run by the well-known Rye artist Ron Dellar and his wife. Now known as Willow Tree House, it was then called Western House. I stayed there with this great couple and remember Ron showing me his paintings which were underway, as well as others hung about the walls.
Since the 70s I have stayed in a few local B&Bs, including the Mermaid Inn and I have got to know owners Judith and Martin, who make me feel very humble with all their kindness.
I discovered an ancestor of mine had his own yacht in the first quarter of the 18th century and plied his trade out of Dieppe and along the south coast of England, doubtless he put in to Rye in those times. I would add that one of our histories states that he went into the “smuggling line” – so there’s a connection with Dr. Syn if ever there was!
How did the Dr Syn character come about?
I blame two of my several dozen cousins squarely for this!
Our family has three histories kept in London, our various families (some seven or so), going back in France over one thousand years; we were at Court for some 500 years. My 20th great grandfather was William, born around 1373 on the Loire, and was the King’s right-hand man so the history relates. In 1413 he was tasked to revise the ancient laws of France.
A cousin bet me a pint I wouldn’t dress as our ancestor, and so a red rag to a bull, it had to be done. Firstly I set about finding a talented seamstress who knew about period dress. Without knowing about the character Dr Syn then, I actually had the “costume” of the right period to appear as the man.
Just a couple of years later another cousin, knowing I was frequently holidaying in Rye,
suggested I take my costume with me and wear it in as Dr. Syn. She explained
all about the books by Russell Thorndyke and Rye became my first “port of call”.
I have been fortunate enough to have a lot of fun meeting locals, as well as tourists from all over the world, and have made many a good friend in Rye.
What do you get out of doing this?
As a kiddie I was rather shy, but now I really can’t be bothered with that, and anyway
there are a whole bundle of people out there who are very interesting, jolly, kind, and like to have a really good giggle. I do like chatting with the folk who approach me and express an interest, it is so special to chat with people who are complete strangers and some become friends.
Like Antonio who ran his Little Bookshop by Rye church. Antonio was a real character and much involved in the life of the town. The day I dipped into his shop he asked: “Who are you?” “Dr. Syn,” I replied, sounding rather like Robert Newton playing the character of Long John Silver in Treasure Island. Immediately, he said: “I want to be Mipps Sir”, and so was instantly enrolled as Dr. Syn’s henchman Mipps! He and his wife were both very special people and top of the list to visit every year.
It was later that rotten year that we all hate, and remember as Covid, that his wife phoned me in tears to tell me that Antonio had passed away – I could barely speak I was utterly devastated. Antonio couldn’t survive without doing “Rye stuff” meeting people and he simply gave up, an illness he didn’t even know was an illness got the better of him.
Tell me about some of the reactions you get from people in Rye.
I do have a lot of fun! Out and about in the street people with broad smiles will approach me and then I know we are on the same wavelength, and we can have a jolly good chat. If people cut me dead I let them pass by.
Most mornings dallying in Rye I oft doth partake, in Dr. Syn’s Chamber in the Mermaid Inn, my mid-morning (as near as I can at 11 hours of the clock) a pot of coffee with a jug of cream and a jolly good rest.
I seat myself down in my favourite luxurious settee, spreading out my heavy top coat and removing my black hat with its fine white ostrich feather which dips and bobs in the breeze. This May, having sat there long enough to rest myself and then reluctantly gathering all about me after finishing my second or third cup, I stood at the doorway to the chamber in my usual purposeful stance with my hand on right hip and left hand on my lovely Indian silver cane at a dashing angle in the medieval hallway. Then I heard footsteps descending the staircase at the far end.
A lady appeared, and on the last step she raised her glance which alighted upon my
stationary figure, left foot readied to step forward, and she immediately let out a loud shriek. She visibly did a double take and tentatively enquired: “You are REAL – aren’t you?” I laughed gently and smiled, “Yes, pretty real actually!” She added, trying to compose herself, “I thought you were a ghost.”
Over the past 20 years I have met and chatted with people from all over the world, including most of Europe, Brazil, Japan, China, Mexico, Indonesia, Ukraine, USA, Canada, and even Russia. Well just about everywhere!
Oh and the Netherlands too, including a coachload of some 30 plus as I was about to enter Lamb House. There was much clicking of cameras and cheering and clapping. Then I was requested to stand there, look this way, take a step forward, hold the handrail with your right hand etc etc etc.
The most frequent question people ask is “Are you hot in all that?” I tell them in my topcoat, undercoat and with some twelve plus feet of stock around my neck I tend to move but very slowly!
Apart from Dr Syn what else are you interested in?
When I was about 20 years old I did try and list my hobbies. History, generally from the early Mesolithic period to say the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII (mid 16thC). Archaeology. Study of buildings / architecture from the Roman period until the close of the Victorian era, including ecclesiastical architecture, and specifically Anglo-Saxon church architecture. I also like numismatics, philately, photography, and the history of photography. Railways and their history, plus motoring including vintage cars (I have owned around six). Art, painting (watercolours particularly), Indian ink drawing, pencil drawings et al. Calligraphy, yachting and a few others too.
All the best to Frank for his visits to Rye. When he returns in the spring, do make sure to you say hello to him.
Image Credits: James Stewart , Kim Rye .
Having read the Dr Syn books several times when I was younger I’m a bit surprised that the article doesn’t mention what Dr Syn actually did.
He was a doctor of divinity who returned to Dymchurch where he was install as the vicar, Mr Mipps was the verger who was also into smuggling, most locals were and Dr Syn only got involved when locals were caught by the revenue men and he got on the case to release them.
He realised that the smugglers were a disorganised and leaderless rabble and doomed to the gallows.
He lead them under the guise of the Scarecrow on many adventures, always one step ahead of the revenue men and very much along the lines of most hero’s in folk lore.
Rye doesn’t feature that much in the books, he came here to preach in the church but the action was always on the marsh and shore between Dymchurch and Dungeness, back then a trip to Rye would have been via Appledore and an adventure.
If I remember correctly Dr Syn rode a donkey and the Scarecrow a magnificent stallion.
Ryes main connection with the story was the film made back in the 60’s where most of the street scenes were shot.
That’s right Tony, thrilling books to read as a youngster but if I recall there was also the connection to Rye via his daughter Imogen and the Mermaid Inn ?