What brings visitors back to Rye again and again? Julie Bee has made our town a yearly destination for almost two decades, so why does she make the 700-mile round trip to Rye each year?
For the past 18 years, my husband George and I have made the long journey from the north east of England to Rye, specifically to Icklesham. We live reasonably close to the coast, not far from Saltburn-by-the-Sea, which some of you may have heard of, so the coast draws us.
We have Michael Portillo to thank for our initial visit to your area. We were watching the first series of Great British Rail Journeys and saw a piece on the Kent and East Sussex Railway (KESR) and thought, “That looks good, let’s visit!” And so what began as a holiday destination in 2008 has become something much more important: a place of familiarity, memories and tradition.
Over the years, we have watched this town and area evolve, sometimes for the better and occasionally in ways that leave us feeling a little nostalgic. We stay in a fabulous accommodation run by Peter and Karen Spencer – Blackthorn Cottage – and it’s most definitely turned into a Bee bolt hole!
As we now know, Rye’s history stretches back centuries, but one of the most noticeable changes we’ve noticed has been the growing popularity of the town. When we first visited, Rye to us felt like something of a hidden gem. Visitors were certainly present, but even then there was often a sense of calm and space. In recent years, however, Rye has become widely recognised as one of England’s most attractive historic towns.
Social media, travel articles and television programmes have introduced thousands more people to its charms and it’s obvious, to us anyway, that it’s now also a very popular day trip destination for Londoners.
This increased popularity has brought benefits. Buildings are maintained to a high standard and the town centre remains vibrant, with independent shops, galleries, cafes and restaurants providing an experience that is increasingly rare on British high streets. There is a feeling of confidence and prosperity that has helped preserve Rye’s unique character. We’ve noticed many changes however – shops and restaurants have closed or changed to reflect new eating habits post-Covid and to adapt to the cost-of-living crisis.
The surrounding area has changed too. We have watched improvements to footpaths, nature reserves and visitor facilities around Rye Harbour. Wildlife tourism has grown significantly, helping people appreciate the unique landscape of marshes, shingle and coastline that makes this corner of Sussex so special. We watched the fabulous visitor centre being erected and the reserve today feels better equipped than it did when we first arrived nearly two decades ago.
What has not changed, thankfully, is the essence of Rye itself. Mermaid Street still provides one of the most beautiful views in England. St Mary’s Church continues to watch over the town. The cobbles, timber-framed houses and medieval passageways retain the atmosphere that first captivated us all those years ago.
Each visit brings something familiar and something new. Some changes are welcome, others less so, but perhaps that is simply the nature of any place that remains alive and relevant. Rye has not become a museum frozen in time and it continues to adapt while holding onto its remarkable heritage.
After 18 years of returning, Rye still feels like a special place to us. It may have changed but so have we. Perhaps that is why the town continues to draw us back, year after year, creating new memories while reminding us of those already made.
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Image Credits: Julie Bee .